Bengal’s Ancient Capital, Panam City Ruins & Folk Art Museum

Sonargaon (সোনারগাঁও), often called the Golden Hamlet of Bengal, is one of the most evocative historic destinations in Bangladesh — a place where ancient river ports, vanished capitals, colonial city ruins, and vibrant folk heritage converge to paint a rich picture of Bengal’s past and present.

Located in Narayanganj District, near Dhaka, Sonargaon lies along the historic Shitalakshya and Meghna rivers — waterways that once fueled trade, culture, and empire. Today it draws history lovers, culture seekers, photographers, heritage travellers, and artisans alike.

Table of Contents

1. History of Sonargaon: From Golden Hamlet to River Port
   • Early Antiquity
   • Sultanate Era
   • Colonial and Modern History
2. Panam City Ruins: The Lost City of Traders
   • Origins and Architecture
   • What to See in Panam Nagar
   • Guided Exploration
3. Folk Art & Craft Museum: Preserving Bengal’s Cultural Heart
   • Birth of the Museum
   • Gallery Highlights & Exhibits
   • Annual Events and Workshops
   • Visitor Experience
4. Local Sights and Surroundings
   • Goaldi Mosque & Other Historic Sites
   • Weaving Villages and Jamdani
   • Scenic Riverfront and Boat Tours
5. Travel Guide: How to Plan Your Sonargaon Visit
   • Best Time to Visit
   • Transportation & Getting There
   • Entry Fees, Timings & Tips
   • Accommodation Options
6. Why Sonargaon Matters: Heritage Preservation, Tourism & Cultural Identity
7. Concluding Thoughts: The Living Legacy of Sonargaon

1. History of Sonargaon: From Golden Hamlet to River Port

Early Antiquity: A Legendary Outpost

The history of Sonargaon dates back to antiquity when it was known as Suvarnagrama — literally the “City of Gold”. This name appears in ancient Greek and Roman texts, suggesting that Sonargaon’s hinterland was an emporium of international trade, particularly in muslin and textiles, which were sought across Asia and Europe.

Archaeological research links this region to Wari-Bateshwar — ruins believed to be part of the Gangaridai Empire, an influential entity mentioned in Greco-Roman accounts. These early commercial roots established Sonargaon’s long tradition as a center of trade and craftsmanship.

Sultanate Era: A Seat of Power

By the 13th and 14th centuries CE, Sonargaon had become a hub of political and economic power under the Delhi Sultanate and later its own regional rulers. During this time:

• It served as a capital of the Bengal Sultanate at various points.
• Sonargaon was a strategic river port linking inland Bengal with the Bay of Bengal.
• Persian literature, law, and culture flourished, making it a vibrant cultural center renowned for learning.

The traveler Ibn Battuta described Sonargaon’s importance, and local rulers like Fakhruddin Mubarak Shah expanded its territory and built roads, embankments, mosques, and tombs.

Colonial and Modern History

The prosperity of Sonargaon continued into the Mughal period, but by the 19th century, economic focus shifted toward Narayanganj and Dhaka. Under British rule, markets and transport routes changed, and Sonargaon’s political importance declined. Beyond trade, however, the city remained a weaving and artisan heartland — especially for muslin and fine cotton cloth.

Post-independence, Sonargaon found new life as a heritage tourism destination and cultural repository. In 1975, legendary artist Shilpacharya Zainul Abedin established the Bangladesh Folk Arts & Crafts Foundation, home of the now-famous Folk Art and Craft Museum, in the historic Bara Sardar Bari mansion.

2. Panam City Ruins: The Lost City of Traders

Origins of Panam City

Within Sonargaon lies one of its most iconic attractions — Panam City (Panam Nagar). Initially a sprawling settlement of wealthy merchants and aristocrats, Panam Nagar’s brick mansions date mainly from the late 18th to early 20th century — a period of commercial boom and colonial influence.

Panam Nagar was a thriving cultural and economic nucleus populated by Hindu merchants who prospered in trade between Dhaka, Kolkata, and beyond.

However, mid-20th century communal strife, migration after Partition, and commercial shifts left much of Panam City abandoned. Today, its ruins stand as testimony to Bengal’s layered past — blending Mughal, colonial, and indigenous architectural influences.

Architecture and Experience

As you wander Panam Nagar’s narrow lanes, many features capture your imagination:

• Brick Mansions: There are about 52 notable houses showcasing colonial-era design with European, local, and Mughal motifs.
• Courtyards & Facades: Interiors and facades tell stories of lavish lifestyle, intricate carvings, and craftsmanship that stood strong against time.
• Atmosphere: It’s this mix of crumbling walls, weathered fences, trellised vines, and historic charm that makes Panam Nagar a perfect haunt for photographers and history lovers.

Guided Exploration Tips

Here are some practical tips for exploring Panam Nagar:

• Best Time for Photos: Early morning and late afternoon yield the best light for warm, golden shots.
• Guided Tours: Local guides often share vivid stories and lore that enrich your experience.
• Respect the Site: While ruins are romantic, they are also fragile heritage — avoid climbing walls or damaging structures.

**3. Folk Art & Craft Museum: Preserving Bengal’s Cultural Heart

From Vision to Institution

The Shilpacharya Zainul Folk and Craft Museum stands as a living testament to Bangladesh’s rural artistic heritage. Founded in 1975 in Sonargaon by Zainul Abedin, and later expanded in 1981 within the Bara Sardar Bari estate, the museum’s mission is to preserve, showcase, and celebrate folk art and traditional crafts once at risk of fading from collective memory.

The museum is located inside the Bangladesh Folk Arts & Crafts Foundation complex, sprawling over roughly 150 bighas and reflecting traditional Bengal’s artistic soul.

Gallery Highlights & Exhibits

The museum’s offerings are vast and immersive — with multiple galleries and outdoor spaces that reflect rural life, craftsmanship, and artistic expression:

1. Ten Traditional Galleries

Most displays are inside the Sardar’s House, organized across 10 galleries featuring:

• Wood carvings and sculptures
• Folk crafts and pottery
• Masks and scroll paintings
• Artifacts depicting indigenous life
• Musical instruments and terracotta art
• Copper, brass, and iron crafts
• Traditional ornaments and attire

Each gallery leads visitors through a different aspect of folk culture, often blending daily life items with symbolic art.

2. Memorial Gallery & Modern Exhibits

Just beside the traditional galleries is the Zainul Abedin Memorial Museum, a structure inspired by vernacular design, containing two additional exhibition spaces. These focus on evolution of craft, production processes, and modern interpretations of folk art.

What Makes the Museum Special

Cultural Representation

The museum draws from across Bangladesh’s rural communities — showcasing items once relegated to everyday village life but now recognized as artistic treasures.

Traditional Jamdani textiles, Nakshi Kantha embroidery, clay figures, and handcrafted tools testify to centuries of handcrafted ingenuity.

Interactive Cultural Events

Each year, the museum hosts a month-long Folk Art Fair during the Bengali month of Boishakh, featuring:

• Folk music and dance
• Puppet shows and jatra (theatre)
• Artisan stalls selling pottery, woodwork, textiles
• Workshops where visitors can learn craft techniques firsthand

These events bring alive the living culture behind the artifacts, turning the museum from a passive exhibit into an active celebration.

Museum Grounds and Visitor Experience

Surrounding the galleries are lush gardens, a scenic lake with boating options, a documentation center, seminar halls, and even spaces dedicated to artisan stays, making this more than just a museum — it’s an immersive cultural landscape.

Visitors can expect:

• Detailed displays of tools and crafts
• Live craft demonstrations
• Photo opportunities with traditional huts
• Canteens serving local food
• Souvenir shops with authentic handicrafts

4. Local Sights and Surroundings

Goaldi Mosque & Historic Sites

Sonargaon isn’t just about Panam City and the Folk Art Museum — it’s dotted with heritage gems like:

• Goaldi Mosque (15th-century terracotta masterpiece)
• Sonakanda Fort on Shitalakshya River (Mughal defensive stronghold)
• Shrines and remnants of earlier capitals
• Archaeological sites linked to pre-Muslim Bengal

Each of these adds a rich historical layer and makes Sonargaon a comprehensive heritage destination.

Weaving Villages & Jamdani Tradition

The region around Sonargaon is famous for weaving — particularly Jamdani, a fine muslin textile recognized as UNESCO intangible heritage. Visiting villages near Sonargaon offers:

• Demonstrations of weaving techniques
• Opportunities to support local artisans
• Insight into centuries-old textile traditions that once made Bengal world famous

5. Travel Guide: Planning Your Sonargaon Visit

Best Time to Visit

• Winter (Nov–Feb): Cool, dry weather ideal for exploration
• Spring (Mar–Apr): Festive mood with cultural programs
• Avoid monsoon peaks if you plan outdoor photography

The museum and ruins are pleasant year-round, but clear skies enhance photos and outdoor experiences.

Transportation & Getting There

Sonargaon lies about 24–25 km southeast of Dhaka and is easily accessible:

By Road

• Buses depart from Dhaka (e.g., from Gulistan) to Mograpara or Panam Nagar.
• From there, take a rickshaw, CNG auto, or taxi to the museum or ruins.

By River

• Some travellers take river launches to Baidyer Bazar Ghat and then local transport to Sonargaon, offering a scenic, authentic river journey.

Entry Fees & Timings

• Museum entry is modest (often around 20–100 BDT depending on category and source).
• Typical opening hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (may vary by season).
• Closed days: often Wednesdays or Thursdays (confirm before visiting).

Accommodation & Local Stays

While Sonargaon has some guesthouses and local homestays, many travellers choose to stay in Dhaka and make a day trip due to Sonargaon’s proximity. For a relaxed tour, consider:

• Boutique guesthouses
• Riverfront lodges
• Homestays with artisan families

6. Why Sonargaon Matters

Sonargaon is more than a tourist spot — it’s a living narrative of Bengal’s history, craft, and identity. It reminds us how:

• Trade and textiles shaped civilizations
• Culture persists through craft and community
• Preservation matters not just for bricks and mortar, but for human heritage

It’s a place where the past isn’t locked in glass cases, but walked through, felt, smelled, and experienced.

7. Concluding Thoughts: The Living Legacy of Sonargaon

From Panam City’s atmospheric ruins to the Folk Art & Craft Museum’s celebration of rural artistry, Sonargaon occupies a unique place in Bangladesh’s cultural landscape. It bridges centuries and sensibilities — from merchants’ brick walls to weavers’ wooden looms, from Mughal courts to village fairs.

For any traveller, historian, artist, or photographer, Sonargaon offers an unforgettable journey — not just into the past, but into the heart of Bengal itself.

Ready to Explore Sonargaon? Start planning your visit today and discover why this Golden Hamlet remains one of Bangladesh’s most cherished historical treasures.